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Considerations in complete kitchen replacement

April 11, 2015

I’ve had a busy few weeks, and I’m currently in the middle of probably the largest house project I’ve undertaken.  In my last post I talked about removing the wall that used to be between the dining room and kitchen. This was the precursor to removing the old kitchen and installing a new one.

In the last week I have completed removal of the old kitchen, so I now have a large empty room, and it is time to start putting things back together.

I thought I would write some notes on the various considerations that I’ve had to make to get me this far, and some of the next steps. I’m doing almost all of the work myself, but there are some things that I am outsourcing and those things require coordination.

Things I need other people for

Electrics, whilst I’m pretty confident in my ability to handle wiring jobs, the reality is that the building regulations require me to either make use of a qualified professional, or pay a fee to have one sign off on anything I do. I decided I might just as well hire an electrician. I needed them to relocate a light switch (it used to sit on the wall I removed) and run all the wiring for new spotlights for the kitchen, removing the old florescent tube.
The electrician needed to drill holes in the ceiling for where the lights would go, and cut holes in the ceiling to aid the rewiring. Another option could have been to lift the floor of the bedroom above, but the ceiling is already trashed from the fact there used to be a wall…

I also realised after removing the kitchen that the new kitchen, whilst very similar in layout, is not *quite* the same and this led to the need to move some switches and make adjustments. In particular the new oven is a range cooker with a double oven, it has a much higher potential power requirement than the old oven and the old wiring was simply not sufficient.
I’m also brining a unit further out into what used to be dining room space (to accommodate the wider oven) and this would put a set of draws in front of a double socket. So the socket needs to be moved a few feet over.
None of this is terribly difficult, however it is all work I need a qualified electrician to do, and that I need to pay for.

Gas safe engineer – The old and new ovens both have a gas hob. The old connection was fixed and needed a qualified gas engineer to disconnect it. He will need to come back to setup the right attachment for the new oven. This is another of those jobs which is really not very complicated, certainly no more so than regular plumbing. However when it comes to handling gas you must use a qualified engineer to do the work. In particular they have the tools to double check there are no gas leaks. As with the electrician, he will provide a signed document that I can use as proof that the work was done properly, which is key for insurance etc.

Plasterer – I’ve tried plastering, it is hard work, and hard to get right, plastering a ceiling is probably the last thing I would even contemplate trying myself.  I need to have the ceiling plastered and make good the walls where the old dividing wall once was. With all the electrics tweaks, I’ll also need them to make good the various channels that need to be cut to accommodate wiring. And of course I ripped off old tiles. If I was going to tile again I could probably get away without re-plastering in those places, but I want to have just plain walls, so again require a plasterer to make good.

I’m also having the windows replaced by a window company, again in theory I could have tried to do this myself I guess, but it is not a job I fancy taking any chances on. Some of the value of the windows are the associated guarantee from being fitted by registered fitters. However this is sort of separate to the kitchen refit, it just happens to be something I’m doing around the same time.

So – when refitting a kitchen expect to have to do some electrical changes, particularly if upgrading an oven. And expect to need a plasterer to make things good again. If you have a gas applicance you will need a gas safe engineer.

But for everything else….there is me.

The main consideration I needed to make for removing the kitchen was hiring a skip sufficient to take away all the rubbish. This is quite tricky because it can be hard to visualise how much capacity you will need. On the one hand, all the cupboards disassemble into nice flat panels which pack nicely. On the other, its surprising how much space tiles take up when you’ve taken them off the wall. I filled 3 black bags. The oven itself takes up a chunk of space which doesn’t compress, the sink, the hob, the extractor etc. All things that needed room in the skip.  I was also removing the carpet in the dining room, probably 15 square meters of carpet and the same again in underlay. It rolls up fairly tightly, but it is heavy and takes up space.

Ultimately I ordered a 4 yard skip, and it turned out to be pretty much perfect. I got everything in, and was able to take few things that my neighbour wanted rid of.

Other than that the issue was time, It took me a couple of days to disassemble most of the kitchen, and another to fill the skip and remove the last pieces once the gas hob was disconnected.

There was nothing that I found I couldn’t tackle on my own, so whilst things would go quicker with a helper, one wasn’t necessary.

One very useful thing I learned was the use of a wall paper stripper (steamer) to remove tile adhesive from the walls after the tiles come off. This was not at all obvious to me, initially I was going to try and use my oscillating multi-tool to cut away at it, but that wasn’t working very well and promised to be very slow going and dusty. I did a quick search and found that the adhesive will actually turn soft again under steam. This worked great, though I did blow the plaster in a couple of places by holding on too long, but since I knew I was re-plastering anyway, it was not a huge deal. It was pretty fast and left the wall pretty flat and undamaged by scraping (except for the aforementioned plaster blow outs which I could probably have avoided)

Next steps

I want to drill a hole for the extractor hood to vent to the outside. This requires a specialist tool, but it also requires me to be pretty sure where the extractor hood will be positioned I have the measurements from the kitchen plan, however I do need to allow for the walls to not be exactly vertical and it might push things over a little in the actual placement of units. The chimney of the extractor is 220 wide, the hole needs to be a minimum 125mm, so there is a little give, but it will require some careful double checking before I start to drill.

I am installing under floor heating, this will raise the floor heights, and the units will need to be commensurately higher, so some consideration for what I’m installing under the units to raise them or if they will have enough adjustment built in.

I was checking the documentation for the extractor hood and discovered that the minimum height it has to be installed above a gas hob is 700mm, which when combined with the minimum stated height of the extractor hood itself and the height of the floor/oven etc, led to the conclusion that my room is not tall enough…So I know I’m going to have to make some fairly aggressive alterations to the chimney sections to allow them to fit in a smaller space.

I still have to work out the details of the plumbing for the new sink and tap. It is highly likely that I’m going to have to shut off the mains water and substantially rework the pipes to fit the new requirements. But there is not much to do about that until the actual kitchen arrives to fit against.

Wren Kitchens wanted about £3000 to ‘fit the kitchen’ with all these considerations I’m not entirely clear whether that would have included absolutely everything that needed doing, or whether some things would have been considered optional extras (moving plug sockets?) In any case I’m on track to spend half of that, even including all the plastering that is more to do with the wall removal than the kitchen install.

DIY skills – level up – Removing a wall

March 8, 2015

Last weekend I levelled up my DIY ability.

I’ve done a fair number of DIY tasks over the years, from the relatively mundane painting walls up to things a little more interesting such as building decking, and even once I built a raised pond, which involved digging foundations, pouring concrete and brick laying. However, last weekend was the first time I have removed a wall in my home.

Ok, so it was just a partition wall, and it was not load bearing. But still. it was a wall, and now it is gone ;-)

Getting permission

By far the longest part of the process was getting building regulations approval to do so. If you’re thinking of removing a wall in your home, even if you know it is not load bearing, you need to talk to your local building authority. In my case it wasn’t the structural issue of removing he wall, but the impact on the fire escape regulations that I needed to be aware of.

After a certain amount of back and forth, which included an initial suggestion that I install a sprinkler system(!), I asked them nicely to come visit me in my house and discuss my options, and they were able to agree that I just needed to have some additional mains wired smoke and heat detectors in order to be on the right side of the regulations.

Part of the deal is that I had to pay a 200GBP fee for the privilege of removing the wall my self. I then have to pay a registered electrician to move the light switch (that was in the wall) and to install the detectors. This is about another 400GBP for supply and install. Then I can call the building regulations department and they will send someone to look at what I’ve done, and what the electrician has done, and they can nod sagely and give me a certificate to show I wasn’t just a lunatic removing walls at random and that I did actually do it properly. This piece of paper would be pretty important should I ever wish to sell the house, but also if I did have a fire, I’m pretty sure my insurance company would need to see that I had followed the rules.

Remember – just because you *could* remove a wall without seeking approval does not make that a good idea. If you had a fire, you can bet that any insurance company would notice the alteration and use it to invalidate some or all of your claim.

Starting work
With permission to proceed I set to work.

Bosch oscillating multi-tool
JCB Solid forged 300mm steel Utility bar
hand saw

With just those three tools I was able to deconstruct the wall over a period of one weekend. The oscillating mutli-tool (OMT) was incredibly useful, I could slice through plasterboard pretty easily and control the depth of cut to know I was really only just barely cutting through. With the first few cuts this was very important as whilst I was pretty sure the wall was empty, I didn’t really *know* it was empty. Once I’d cut out a few panels I was able to increase my confidence in what I was cutting into.
I cut the plasterboard away in fairly largish chunks initially, and eventually I started using the OMT to help score where I wanted things to break and using the utility bar to pry the board away from the wooden frame.
The wood frame was upright pieces ever 400mm ish, with horizontal pieces nailed between. Normally only one horizontal section, but more around where things needed to be more stiff, eg next to the door frame, and where the kitchen radiator was supported. Mostly I cut out the horizontal pieces with a hand saw, then I could cut the vertical piece near where it connected to the long horizontal of the top of the frame. at this point I could usually just lever the vertical section out of its nails at the base. But sometimes I also cut it near the bottom to just pull out the section. I was actually trying to retain the wooden frame pieces in the longest lengths I could. I plan to reclaim all of that good quality construction timber to build a work bench along one wall of my garage.

I had one mini-emegency when I was removing hte kitchen radiator. I had closed off the thermostatic valve, and drained the radiator down as usual. Then when I was prying the radiator off the valve connection, and generally exerting a fair amount of force to get things off, suddenly the valve went full open. This meant a fairly high pressure spray of water into the kitchen. I was briefly afraid that I’d managed to crack a pipe connection or something. I hurriedly reconnected the radiator, and sealed it up again. Satisfied there was no other leak, it was just the valve having mysteriously failed. I switched the thermostatic controller out for just a shut off cap  and went back to taking the wall down, except the bit supporting the radiator.
The next day I went and bought myself a blanking cap to go on where the radiator connected. I figured if I could get back to a similar point to previously, eg the radiator empty and the valve shut, I could quickly pop the radiator off and the blanking cap on, so even if the valve was bust/unreliable I could be confident not to get water everywhere. That plan seemed to work out just fine. And so the final deconstruction of the wall was possible.

Here is short timelapse of the whole process..

Disposing of the waste

It is important to know that you cannot just throw plasterboard in your bin, in fact you can’t even throw it in the average skip. You need to make special arrangements to dispose of plasterboard. Fortunately for me, my local recycling centre takes plasterboard. So 3 car trips later, and I had removed most of the unwanted waste from the wall, whilst also having a nice big pile of wood to use in the garage.


All in all this was a pretty satisfying job to do, it was hard work for a couple of days but the space feels awesome now it is opened up. By reclaiming all the timber, I’ve saved myself having to buy some special for the garage which will save me a fair chunk of change.
The next job is to get rid off all the pipe work associated with the old radiator…that will involve another DIY first, draining down a heating system and cutting and capping some pipes.

Now I just need to find an electrician who responds to email and can come do the parts I need them to do.

Hubsan x4 H107c micro quadcopter – first flights

February 8, 2015

A long time ago I bought myself a small rc helicopter. It was quite tricky to fly and fairly limited in abilities. The battery life was poor and the batter was hardwired. All in all it was probably not the most awesome experience. Roll on perhaps 7/8 years and technology has moved on a great deal…


Last week I bought myself the hubsan x4, a cursory search shows this is a very popular micro-quadcopter and a recommended choice for a beginner to learn to fly quadcopters with. It is cheap enough and robust enough that it can handle a few crashes without a serious problem ;-)

It is a great little toy, very easy to get started with. It is so small that you can fly it around indoors easily enough. I almost immediately ordered extra batteries, because you can easily swap them over. So whilst each one lasts perhaps 8-10 minutes of flight, you can swap out a new batter in a few seconds and carry right on flying.


I took it up to the heath to have some fun flying outside. It was a pretty windy day and all credit to this tiny little flying machine, I was still able to control it and fly it around despite the wind. Though I did have to go into ‘expert’ mode. In normal mode I just wasn’t able to tilt into the wind hard enough to move against it. I took some video and cut it together:

This was great fun, with the extra space to fly around in I tried a few things like the built in flips, (near the end of the video), I also launched it by throwing it into the air then powering up the props. That is a pretty amazing trick when you think about what is involved. It is a very small and really reasonably cheap machine, yet it can very rapidly, from a random throw, power up and gain stable flight.

I also did some stuff of taking off and landing on my hand, which again considering the generally windy conditions was pretty neat. The one thing I didn’t get much of was stable footage at height, since the wind was tossing things around quite a lot.

I removed the worst of the wobbly sections, however it is easy to see how this could become addictive and lead to wanting bigger and more capable quadcopters. The Hubsan is good enough and fun enough to get a glimpse of the potential. The hubsan is a little skittish in the wind, and with the fixed camera the video is a little all over the place. In calmer conditions I could probably get more stretches of reasonable video, but it immediately makes you realise why bigger machines have gimbled mounts for their video.

Also watching the craft and flying it is fairly straight forward, but it can actually be quite tricky to keep the camera pointing where you want, because you have to constantly adjust your control to consider which way the x4 is pointing. It is much easier to keep it pointing away from you and just fly forward/back side/side, but then you only get footage in one direction and not necessarily what you want. This leads immediately to realising the allure of the ‘FPV’ quads which can stream video live to a screen, so you can choose to fly from its point of view.

For now I will have to remain content to keep practising with the x4. However I can see how easy it would be to get carried away…


Orbis Access – A new investment site is born

January 21, 2015

Today a new investment website has been born and its name is

Orbis Access

I am not a spokesperson for the company, and I should not be looked to for any kind of investment advice. I was however part of the team that brought this new site out into the world. I’m not going to write much about the business because you can read the site for that, I am however going to write a bit about my experience in being a part of the project.

Just over 4 years ago I made a pretty big change to my life. I had been working for IBM for 10 years and I made the decision that it was time to move on and seek new challenges. Well I say ‘I’, my wife and I both wound up moving house and changing jobs. It was a big year.

The company I joined was Orbis investment advisory limited and I joined an exciting new project which was then in its early days. The project was ambitious, and represented a great opportunity for me professionally to get involved in a lot of new aspects of software development and indeed business development. During my time so far I have worked alongside some awesome, intelligent and dedicated people, and it has meant a great deal of hard work and sometimes long hours. The most apparent outward effect of this time period on my blog was that I went from reliably posting weekly to haphazardly trying to find time to get something up maybe monthly ;-)

It has been a fascinating journey and a rewarding challenge. I joined the team as senior tester at a time when the whole team was perhaps 15-20 people. We grew fast, and each of us had to learn what it means to bring a brand new financial services company to life in the world. This is not like launching a new social media site, or photo sharing community or news aggregation service etc. The financial services industry in the UK is regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. There are high standards to meet, structures have to be in place to ensure the utmost protection for client money and data. As a tester by trade when I started, my world view had to expand from simply worrying about finding bugs in code, to dealing with the overarching quality of everything we do. It was pretty amazing, and daunting. Being empowered to make decisions is a lot harder than you might imagine. Its seemingly easy to have ideas and criticize things when you can’t make changes, but when given the chance to make whatever changes you feel are important, with the only requirement that you be able to justify why you think it will work. That is a whole different challenge.

I’ve been involved in lots of different discussions and decisions as the team has worked through such things as:

  • exactly how our order process should look.
  • what is the best way for our operations team to manage thousands of payments easily.
  • what kinds of tests should we write and how should we best simulate what conditions will be like for the site with lots of clients all with long history data.
  • How do we handle it if an internal or external system has a failure.
  • What evidence do we need to produce to satisfy regulators and auditors that we are following or processes.
  • what font choice we should make. (I learned a lot I didn’t know about fonts)

Usability testing helped inform many choices around the outward style and content of the site. Quantitative and qualatative research led by business analysts drove the specifics of the offering. Whilst team input and industry best practice has helped shape the way our development team writes, builds, tests and deploys the site.

So now, we are live! Right now. I find I experience an odd mix of excitement to be live and realisation that being out in the big wide world ups the stakes significantly. I’m confident in what we’ve built, but of course you can never be certain that you’ve covered all the angles. I guess this is why actors like the stage and live broadcast has a different feel to pre-recorded etc. At IBM I was insulated to a great extent from customer experience of products I had worked to test by virtue of the large organisation and service structures etc. It was much more like prerecording, going through a long careful editing process etc. Not so with Orbis Access, I will be made aware of any and every issue that is reported no matter how minor, anything that a client reports to us will certainly lead to questions of why we didn’t find it before a client and how we can do better, this is live and the whole team is on stage.

Despite the nerves, it is fantastic to finally be able to share this project with the world at large.

And I’ve gone this whole post without really saying what this site offers! Well there are many people better qualified that me to discuss the nature of the offering and its comparison to the market, and some have been invited to review and comment upon the site and what OA has to offer.
When those people begin to write about us, I will probably add some links below. Hopefully if you go looking for information, either on our site or through google, then you will find out all you need to decide for yourself. Suffice for me to say, if you’ve been thinking that you could or should be doing something a little more with your finances then maybe you should take a look at what OA has to offer.

Just to end things on a more normal ‘projects’ note… ages ago I posted about playing with engraving glasses with dremel at that time I actually made a set of wine glasses for the office with the OA logo on… and here they are:

Coverage of the launch:

Weekend project: custom case for raspberry pi camera

January 11, 2015


Last week I wrote about the one hour challenge I set myself to setup my raspberry pi with its new camera module and get it running as an IP camera along with my other 2 dedicated ones.
This led naturally on to wanting it to be set up a little better than precariously balanced on boxes and blue-tac’d in place. So I set off on another one our project to see how far I could get in building a case. Whilst 1 hour was no where near enough to do everything I wanted, it was a good way to prompt me to action. The challenge of an hour forced me to stop procrastinating and make some decisions to get going.
Once the hour was up I was well on my way with a vision of what I wanted to do and so the weekend challenge was on ;-)

In the first hour

The first hour was really a case of making the big decisions. I started with 15 minutes sketching out ideas and thinking through things like inserting a nut in the bottom so that I could potentially mount the whole thing on some kind of bracket via a bolt etc.
Here are my initial sketches

I decided to go with a low flat design that would be stable laying on a surface. I wasn’t worried about exposing any of the ports etc, just power in the back and the camera at the front.

The next decision was material, I considered metal or plastic, but really mdf is what I have laying around the most, and is also the thing I have the most tools/experience in working with, so that is what I went with.

The first thing I worked on was how to mount the camera module in a small mdf panel with the camera exposed. Here my new table saw set up made things pretty easy, using the sled I could just cut about half depth slices, and just move the block on each pass until I had a rebate wide enough for the camera module to just fit snugly in place.
I then used the drill press to drill out a hole for the camera lens to poke through.

With this part made I’d essentially determined the height and width of the case I was building, so I could use the bandsaw to cut out a bottom/top and rear to match. I decided to make the long sides from hardboard recessed into slots.

Here I made an unfortunate error, I was just sizing things by eye, but I didn’t yet have the wifi dongle for the raspberry pi, and I didn’t allow quite enough space in the case dimensions, so right at the end I had to hack a little rebate on the inside of the case to accomodate it. I should have done more research about how far it would protrude to get my measurements right up front… Alternately, if I had decided to expose the SD card slot I would have had more room to play with.

My hour was up around about now, I had pieces cut about to size and I knew I could mount the camera module.

What was left to build

As I mentioned above, I decided the long sides would be hardboard set into slots that run alon the bottom/top and up the front and back pieces. This would then get glued in place.  I quickly set a stop up on the table saw sled and used it to get repeated slots on each piece that would be hte same distance from the edge. This would have worked perfectly if I had been a little more careful on the bandsaw… Turns out my pieces were not exactly the same width, and so whilst the slots were the same distance from the outside edge on each piece, this left them at slightly differing distances between the slots. So I had to widen a couple to get everything fitting. A lesson learned, in rushing during the first hour I paid less attention to exact cuts, and that caused me trouble later when I decided to use this method of box construction.

With a bit of finessing I was done for the physical construction which really didn’t take that much more than an hour, certainly less than 2. At this point I had a press-fit case of plain mdf and hardboard. I decided to glue up the whole case except the top. The idea being that the top would always remain a push fit,  and the means to get the pi in and out.
So I clamped things up and let the glue set (using lots of new clamps I got for christmas/birthday, hurrah for having plenty of clamps!)

The Paint Job

By now I had a pretty good idea that I wanted to use the project as something to play with my new air brush. Being bare mdf, I put on a first coat of primer by brush. This is possibly the only option I had, however the brush marks later frustrated me a little in the pursuit of a nice finish.

I followed the usual routing, paint, dry, sand lightly, paint again. to try and build up a couple of coats of white to give a base for everything else. I wound up airbrushing white on to try and get things looking smooth which was good practice for airbrushing solid colour blocks.
I then set about coming up with idea for what I wanted to paint on the box.


I decided to go with my blog logo on the top, with a raspberry pi logo on the bottom, a power symbol next to the power in hole on the back, and a stylised eye around the camera on the front. This gave me a good chance to practice cutting out templates etc. My logo was tough since the geek is made up of lots of small boxes, this meant lots of very fine bits of paper that needed to be left and not broken during the cutting process. To minimise the risk of screwing it up I cut each letter separately ( this also meant I only needed to cut one ‘e’) and I cut the ‘maker’ separately but as one piece. Finally cutting out the cog shape separately also. This made for a less risky construction of template. However it proved difficult to get things aligning nicely, and I didn’t leave the paint enough time to dry for each part, so putting the template down again to spray the next part lifted some paint from previously sprayed letters.

The raspberry pi logo was pretty straight forward, I did it as two separate templates since it is a two colour template.
For the eye I wound up just free-handing something based on an example I liked. I took measurements from the front of the case so I could sketch my template out to have the camera lens as the pupil of the eye. This probably worked out the best, I’m really happy with how it came out.

Having selected my templates I was thinking about colours and decided I’d make the box itself black, then use the raspberry pi logo colours on their logo and on mine. Then just leave white for the front and back. This involved practising laying down a black coat, then spraying the template with white first. So that the colour would show up on the white. Practice went well, it is reasonably easy to get the template back in place for each pass. However on my paper example the paint dried quicker than it did on my actual case…

practice run

With confidence this was going to work I set about spraying the box black and building up a nice coat all round. I used the nut I had included in the design to allow me to mount the case in the air and let me spray all the surfaces etc.

Around about here is where I was close enough to complete to want to drive to finish within the weekend. Really I should have allowed more time for each stage to dry before moving on to the next. But I was full of enthusiasm and things were looking pretty good.

Here is the box in about its best state, with everything painted, and a clear coat sprayed on to seal everything in place. As I mentioned earlier the maker geek logo was a little wonky due to my decision to template in parts. I’d also made a bit of a mess of the ‘maker’ paint when laying the template down for the geek letters. The green was a little more watery than the other colours so it ran a little more. However despite it all I was fairly happy at this stage.

Unfortunately this is where impatience and earlier mistakes caused problems, I wanted to get the raspberry pi installed, so I didn’t really give the box enough time to dry. It was almost completely dry, but of course my finger found the one corner on the bottom where the clear coat was still wet, and so I got a finger print in it. Perhaps I should have cut my losses here and left it alone to properly dry, but instead I forged on, and discovered the box needed adjustments to let the pi fit with the wifi module installed.

This involved slightly rougher handling of the box, which further damaged the paint on the bottom ;-( It’s not awful, but had I just decided to let the paint all dry over night, I would have found the fit issues with more time available and been able to avoid causing problems to the paint work.

For better or worse, here it is completed within one weekend.  From inception to completion was probably 5/6 hours work not including gluing and drying time.



It is cool to have another camera in place and the case is a huge improvement on just propping the bare board somewhere. However I may have to come back to this and make a v2 case to avoid some of the failings in this one.

One Hour With: Arduino NOIR Camera

January 4, 2015

Over the Christmas period I had a chunk of time off, and so of course I filled with with many more things I’d like to do than I really had the time or energy for. One of these was to play with one of my Christmas gifts, a NoIR camera for my raspberry pi.

I hit upon the idea of setting myself a time limit, to see how far I could get in 1 hour. This may inspire a series of similar posts to see how far I can get with a project in one hour.

Starting conditions

My hour did not start from an entirely blank slate. I’ve had the pi for a while now, so I had power supply, hdmi lead, sd card. I’d already set up raspbian and openELEC on the SD card.


I’ve written before about my CCTV setup, so my objective was to get the pi acting as a third camera in the mix.


I didn’t make it in 1 hour. But I did make it shortly after. At an hour mark I think I had the camera ‘working’ through motion to detect movement, but I wasn’t able to access the stream for some reason. Which I ‘fixed’ by switching from teh recommended md5 authentication for the stream down to basic auth.

What I achieved in an hour

In the hour I did achieve a bunch not all of which was really related to my objective.
I attached the camera module, there are 2 places that look like they could take it, and neither is completely obvious which way you’d install the ribbon, but a quick google pointed me at it so this was very quick.
I connected everything up to monitor and keyboard etc and booted up. I found some instructions specifically for setting up the pi with motion for the camera, including a custom build of motion that supports the pi’s camera module.
However the start of those instructions (wisely) has you do an update for the rpi software and all a raspbian update/upgrade. So this took a huge chunk of my hour before I even got started. I could have excluded this from the timer, but it is worth remembering that this sort of thing does need to get done, and can take a big chunk of an hour. Had I been starting from a fresh raspberry pi, then I would have killed a similar amount of time on a first install of raspbian etc.

After the update I followed the instructions to download and install the custom motion build, but I didn’t download their config, instead deciding to go through the motion.conf myself and look for the settings they talked about along with others. Here I have the advantage that I’ve already got 2 cameras up and running using motion so I’m familar with it.
One thing I have running on my other setup is a NotifyMyAndroid script which sends my phone a message on events. So I copied this across and set it up.
I also wanted all the output of all cameras to end up in the same folder to be synced with dropbox. My existing 2 cameras are both controlled by motion on a different server so the existing folder was local to that. I decided to move everything to a shared NAS* drive, and so I included the reconfigure of the existing system to point to the new location.

*(it later turns out that dropbox sync apparently only works where it is intercepting create file events , or some similar, so files created in the folder by my raspberry pi are inivisble to the sync process and it does not push them out…this is a work in progress)

I spent a while faffing around trying to figure out why the stream wasn’t working when I pointed to it. It was prompting me for credentials  but not accepting the ones I gave. I tried chome and vlc with no joy.
However I did notice that I was getting pictures and video stored in my videos folder.

After the Hour was up

I was so close when the alarm went off that I just kept going. a few minutes later I had switched authentication back to basic auth and the stream worked fine. This then lead me into tweaking the config to keep the CPU usage under control. I’m still not sure whether ‘locating movement’ by drawing boxes into the frame is cpu intensive or not. I’ve tried it on and off, With it on I was clearly skipping frames, so we’ll see how it performs with it off.
I also tried for 4 frames a second, my other two cameras are set at 5. I’ve bumped that back down to 3.
I stopped it taking pictures, and just have it taking video, as I don’t really need the images and I guess that would also take more processing.
I added a new firewall rule for my router and added the camera feed as a third one to IP Camera Viewer on my phone.
I set up the camera by our front door. The idea is that the existing two are wide ground shots, with the front door camera we should get a better view of anyone that comes to the door. Not sure if that is where I’ll leave it, ultimately I want to add wifi module to the pi and make it more portable to put anywhere.
That said, another crazy scheme is to mount it on my pan/tilt and see if I can have the arduino power the pi, and the pi send control signals to the arduino… This in theory would allow motion to send tracking signals as well which would be fun to try.

Well into hour 3 or 4 of playing around I had decided to try and make the whole set up more robust. My existing system relies on vlc to transcode the ip camera’s h264 stream into something that motion supports. Then some scripts to allow motion to trigger more vlc sessions to record hi-res streams when events happen.
This has been very flakey as the vlc sessions tend to terminate after certain amount of failures, also it was all kicked off by me in terminal sessions so anytime we rebooted I’d have to remember to go set things going again.

So I dug into more vlc settup and found a way to start vlc as a daemon service using init.d and start-stop-service, and passed in my setup of two channels as a single vlm.conf file. This meant running just one process that kicks off both channels, and it means a nicer start/stop mechanism for the webcam transcoding.
This also meant that I realised motion has an event fired when it loses connection to a camera, so I could use that to trigger it to force a restart of the webcam service and hopefully allow it to ‘self-heal’ when things go wrong. We shall see whether this increases reliability.

The remaining 2 problems I know of are… Dropbox sync. I need to come up with some way to make dropbox aware of the new files placed by the pi. My current hope is that a local user ‘touch’ on the files might work. If so then I might have an event triggered that executes a remote command on the primary dropbox machine to touch all the files. If that doesn’t work… well I guess I’ll just have to think of something else. UPDATE: this worked, a remote touch of the files got dropbox to notice them
The second problem which I’ll try to investigate is that I often use a private vpn on our primary server, but after periods of inactivity it seems to stop working, requiring a manual stop/start to behave. This means that after some time the system stops seeing the outside world at all and the sync fails. So I need to come up with something that will keep the connection more reliable.

In all my ‘I’ll just do this for an hour’ snowballed into much of the day spent tweaking my setup. However I justified this as starting the new year with things ‘working’ It also spun off into my finally upgrading XBMC to KODI and getting the remote app on my phone working again. :-)

Wood burning stove

December 26, 2014

Over the last several weeks we have been completely redecorating our living room. I’ll post more about that later. The centre piece of this refurbished room is a nice new wood burning stove.

The room previously had a large, ugly, fireplace with a gas fire.

The house has central heating so it is probably more a question of aesthetic value to have a fire at all, and I’ve had my eye on a wood burner for some time. I’ve had a chimenea in the garden for a few years and really like what that adds to a summer evening enjoying the garden. So this is the obvious extension, a nice wood burning stove for the chilly winter evenings.

At this point everything is finished, and I’m happy with the stove, and the room in general. But it has been quite the journey to get this far, so I wanted to blog about the experience.

Our first step was to identify a company to install our stove. Normally I try to do everything I can myself. However with a stove you need it to be installed by a Hetas registered installer so that you can get the appropriate certificate for the purposes of building regulations etc. On more than one occasion I found myself wondering whether it would have been easier if I just got myself hetas certified to do the work…

We spoke to a couple of different local suppliers, the one we ultimately chose was grange farm stoves. They are based not too far from us and I had spotted their sign on our way to Duxford one day. We popped in to the showroom and spoke to Michael who runs the business.

Things did not start well as my wife and I both noticed that whenever she asked a question, he addressed his answer to me. I’m normally not that attuned to such things, but it was so apparent that he was really talking to me, not to us. However we wrote this off as unrelated to the companies ability to install stoves.
A warning sign for the complexities to come was that he provided the name and details for ‘his installer’ but insisted that we make arrangements by calling him at grange farm, who would in turn make arrangements for Rhys the installer to come round and survey the scene.
It later became clear that Rhys runs his own stove installation business, Moda stoves, which we could have contacted independently.

In any case, Rhys came along and surveyed what we wanted doing, and talked a little about chimney liners. Our existing chimney has a clay liner, the house itself is only about 30 years old so the chimney is a relatively modern construction. However the recommendation for ‘efficiency’ is to have a chimney liner installed. What I found throughout was that no one could really put any figures to ‘efficiency’ in terms of a new liner compared to an existing clay liner. The cost difference is not insubstantial and as a more decorative feature than a serious part of heating the house I was interested by just how inefficient it would be without. Ultimately it didn’t matter as removing the existing fireplace revealed the existing liner didn’t start for 5/6 feet from the ground and so a liner is what we got. I still wonder a little about whether this is legitimate or merely snake oil. It is hard to know as a consumer what is real and what is just a line to sell you more stuff.

We did get quotes from more than one place, but Rhys seemed to know what he was talking about and so we proceeded. Another slight oddity was grange farm insistence on being paid half up front then in full 3 days before final installation day. Typically with building works I’ve always been invoiced after the job is done. I brought this up as unusual, and was essentially told I could take my business elsewhere if I didn’t like it.
I asked a couple of questions in an email, including some regarding timescales for installation etc along with this query and I felt the response I got was about the least professional email I’d ever received from a business. Had I not been worried about the timescale of the project getting done before Christmas I probably would have walked away then. But instead I let it pass, and smoothed things over. Ultimately Graham phoned me to assure me of his fine upstanding nature and trustworthiness etc etc and why I would be fine paying in advance. He neglected to realise that the implication was that he wouldn’t trust *me* to pay up, but I needed to trust him to do the job. Ultimately we agreed on a deposit and set things in motion. I guess in some ways I perpetuate the problem by not walking away. He’ll never learn how to actually handle customers in a professional way.

That was pretty much the last dealing I had directly with Grange farm, despite their protestations that things go via them, from this point on I was talking with Rhys about dates for the various phases of work.

The first phase was the rip out of the existing fireplace, and capping off the gas. I was quoted about 90 pounds for a gas engineer to come with them and cap off the supply. However, after several days they were unable to confirm a gas engineer. None of their usual people were even returning their calls. This was explained as gas engineers busy doing higher value work such as boiler installation. Ultimately in frustration I said I would make arrangements. I brief search led me to Matt Pope, a local registered Gas engineer. He was able to confirm his availability and came along, on time, and capped the supply for 35 pounds. He did everything I expect of a contractor. He arrived when he said he would, he did the job he was asked to do in a timely, no fuss manor and he invoiced me when the job was done. I recommend him to anyone local to Royson.

With the gas tapped off, the removal of the fireplace proceeded a pace and we soon had a bare wall and hole where the old fire had been.



At this point it is worth pointing out that this phase was not completed by Rhys. It was completed by Lee, someone who was also independent, he gave me his card and was not shy about revealing that I could have come to him directly and he would have been able to provide all the same stuff and the same guarantees at a lower price, since he doesn’t operate with the showroom overhead of grange farm. This was refreshingly honest, but really not what I wanted to hear at the start of a job I was committed to with Grange farm.

The first phase was always about determining whether there would be sufficient space to open up the chimney to set a stove in side. There was not and this informed the next part of the design, to brick up the old hole with a flue running through into the chimney such that the stove would sit in the room against a flat wall.

So phase 2 saw Lee and his sidekick return to attached a ‘T-Piece’ in the chimney, open up a soot door from the outside to allow a sweep to work from there. And to brick up the hole with the flue sticking through.
This was a point where communication confusion was an issue. Rhys had suggested running 2×45 degree bends from the back of the stove up into the chimney as it would make it easier to sweep. Which sounded reasonable. However Lee proposed the idea of the T-Piece with an external soot door. Meaning that a sweep would not even need to come into the house to do the job. As someone that is out at work a lot, the idea of not even needing to be home was appealing. So we went with that. Later when Rhys came to inspect the work he commented that it was a little tight and that sweeps would almost certainly complain (but apparently they always do).  In any case I feel that the external soot door was the preferable option. We shall see whether it causes any sweeps a problem.

Phase 3 was another separate contractor, a plasterer, come to skim the whole wall, covering the newly bricked up space and ensuring there was no join. He came and did the job which was ok. The result was nice an flat, but a little messy around the plugs and the wiring for the wall lights. Not bad, but could have been better. The plaster required 2 days to dry, and we were running out of time before Christmas and before our carpet was due to be fitted.

This meant that I painted the wall before and after work every day for a few days. Up at 6am, coat of paint on the wall, go to to work all day, home by about 7.30, paint the wall again before dinner. So that the wall was all finished ready for the ‘final install’

For this Rhys himself came. Unloaded the granite hearth, and the stove. Took some measurements… and declared that the flue was 25mm too high as it came through the wall…

Option 1 was: break out the wall, reset the flue, re-plaster. This was never a serious option. But he stated it none the less.
Option 2 was: take the hearth back to the stone cutters and set some feet on it and some strips of granite to form a box on the bottom to raise it by 25 mm.
Rhys left with intent on option 2, and later confirmed he would be back the following morning hot from the stone cutters to finish the job.

And so I had to work from home again for the work to finish.
But Rhys did not come, Lee came, and the hearth had not been adjusted. Lee took measurements and said that of course it was that high, since the plan was always to set the hearth on a bed of concrete that would both level it and raise it to the right place. So lack of communication between the two parties cost a day for no real reason.

30 minutes later Lee was proudly cleaning up from setting the hearth on concrete, just prior to setting the stove in place. At this point I looked at it and clearly saw the hearth was not centred on the flue. And so I asked ‘Is that hearth centred?’ (See above) This caused Lee to get out his tape measure, and check the distance from each side of the hearth to a mark on the wall. He made a show of nudging things over a few mm and declared that yes, it was centred…
I then pointed out that I had no idea what the mark on the wall was for, but it was most certainly not centred on the flue. For the first time Lee took a step back and realised that the hearth was quite clearly about 3 inches too far to one side (which you can see in the photo below). And so they started again.

To be fair it didn’t take long to correct the mistake. However this was definitely one of those times that i felt maybe it would have been easier for me to just get myself registered to do the job.

So finally. I had a stove installed. However… there was supposed to be a decorative ‘collar’ around the flue where it entered the wall, which they didn’t have. And there was supposed to be a ‘multi-fuel grate’ for the stove, which they also did not have. They did ask if I’d ordered the multi-fuel option, and I confirmed that yes, that is what was on my quote and apparently after checking they found that I was supposed to have one.
Out of time, with carpets due on the Monday, I made arrangements with Rhys for him to come Monday morning with the last parts.

Monday afternoon, after carpets were installed, I emailed to find out what was going on, the response was ‘I didn’t realise it was Monday’ It’s not clear whether he didn’t realise the day was Monday or didn’t realise he has said he would be around on Monday. But in any case he suggested 8.30am Tuesday. Accepted this and he acknowledged ok.
9.30 Tuesday I phoned Rhys to find out what was going on, he said “I didn’t see a response from you with a time” to which I pointed out he had proposed 8.30 and I had accepted it. So he said ‘I’ll be with you in about 45 minutes’
2 hours later… I finally get a call from someone else that worked for Rhys, who was lost trying to find the house. He turned up 5 minutes later and finally finished the job. Grate installed, decorative collar stuck to wall.

And so it was done. and like I said at the start, I’m happy with the result and very happy with the room overall. However I don’t think I would recommend any of the parties involved to a friend. Perhaps it is just that I so rarely use tradesmen that I’m just not used to the associated problems. However I feel I have fairly low bar. Tell me when you’ll do something and do it at that time. Don’t make mistakes that it takes me to point out. Bring all the things required to do the job. etc etc. I’m very happy that the job is now done, and I can go for a while without relying on other people. However I know that when it comes to new windows/doors I will once again be at the mercy of others to hopefully do things when they say they will.


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