I wrote previously about a little project to turn my circular saw into a table saw. Last time I was just fixing the structure around the circular saw itself.
Now I have a whole table up and running.
The sled I made from a peace of melamine that I came out of the kitchen cupboard I cut in half when I installed a new dishwasher. Along with some hard wood runners that sit in the routed tracks.
It runs back and forth pretty smoothly so I guess I managed to get everything fairly parallel.
The cabinet structure keeps things pretty sturdy, and helps to catch the sawdust and keep it inside rather than go everywhere. I had some old material laying around the garage which I staple-gunned in place to catch the sawdust from coming out forwards, whilst still providing easy access to adjust the saw. I am planning on cutting a small circular hole in the back so I can always stick the hose from my dust collector in if I want to further reduce dust.
My first little project with the new setup was to make a rack for some storage boxes in my study. Really just a few scraps squared off and to cut to length to be cross supports, then a rebate sawed out of the end blocks to fit the supports.
It took really only a few minutes to knock up, and the table saw performed nicely. I suspect the accuracy is not that great for longer cuts. I did my best to tweak the alignments on the sled to get good 90 degree cuts, however the blade/spindle in the saw itself can rock back and forth as much as a mm or 2 over the diameter of the saw blade, so there was always going to be a limit to how precise I could make it.
That said, it leaves a much smoother cut than the bandsaw, and I feel like it opens up so useful cutting options, such as cutting out slots. Certainly useful enough for the time being. maybe one day this will act as the gateway drug to buying a full professional table saw. I guess it depends on how much use I get out of it and how frustrating its shortcomings become.
Depending on how you count, this table saw either cost about 70-80 pounds, or was free. The plywood was what was left after making shelves in the study. The circular saw I’ve had for years and rarely use as a free hand saw.
My wallet is perhaps a little behind the times. My debit cards do not have touch-to-pay, I have a credit card with that feature, but it got rejected a couple of times and I honestly didn’t investigate why, I simply lost faith in using that method to pay.
Enter – Barclays bPay band.
I’m not sure were I heard of this now, but I did and I signed up. Barclays will send you one for free.
What is it?
Well, I describe it as sort of like an Oyster card, in so far as you manage it online, and use whatever card you like to send it money and configure ‘auto-top up’ when it drops below certain thresholds. Unlike Oyster you can use it anywhere that tap-to-pay is accepted, not just on the london underground etc. (it can be used there as well, so it is a complete replacement for oyster in that sense)
Also unlike oyster, and indeed unlike any touch-to-pay debit card. The ‘card’ here is very small, less than 1/4 the size of a debit card, and comes in a ‘band’ for you to wear on your wrist.
The band is just rubber, the magic is a card which can easily be extracted…more on that later.
For those unaware – touch-to-pay is a system that lets you pay for transactions of 20 pounds or less. So tube fares, coffee, lunch etc.
The result of this is that in places that accept touch-to-pay you can simply reach your arm out and tap the band to the reader and you’re done. This is not just faster and easier than debit cards, it is faster and easier than cash. I don’t have to get my wallet out, fumble with cards/cash change receipts and whatever I’m buying. I can just use my hands to take the goods. (I mostly decline receipts if I can for these kinds of low value purchases)
I’m aware that Apple is launching its Apple Watch, and one of the features of this is the ability to use it as the thing that you touch to reader when paying via their equivalent system. In this I think they’ve also realised this is one of the killer features that can be put on your wrist. Though personally I think the bPay band is better since it is focussed on just that, and was free…
The bPay band has 2 major flaws.
1) As yet not everywhere accepts touch-to-pay. It is very common in London, but in my home town I’ve only found 2 retailers that accept it. And of course if you can’t rely on it being taken then it diminishes the value a little. Hopefully this will become less of a problem over time.
2) the rubber band it comes in is cheap and uncomfortable.
For the first week that I had it, I just kept it in my pocket, and looped it over my fingers when I was preparing to pay. At this point it was really no different to a touch-to-pay card etc. There was the step of ‘preparing’ that I needed to take, just because it was not something I would just wear.
Over the weekend I fixed that issue.
I ordered a leather ‘cuff’ from Etsy, it is just a simple thick leather strap with some poppers so you can secure it around your wrist. Its the sort of thing that I’m fairly happy to just wear. it is comfortable and doesn’t look particularly out of place. I’m sure it won’t be to everyone’s taste, but the basic principle of customisation can be applied to anything that you are happy to wear on your wrist.
I then hacked a flap in the back of the leather strap, I made a slightly messy job of it. I bought two so I may try a different approach on the other.
Having cut a flap, I glued the edges back down and left myself with a small pocket in the edge of the strap that just snugly fits the card from the bPay Band.
Now I can wear this as a matter of course, and not really think about it until I need to pay for something.
My first use was in a W.H.Smiths, which is one of the two places in my town that accept touch-to-pay, the cashier was taken by surprise when I just pressed my wrist against the reader and paid. It was the first time she’d seen anything like it. I suspect it will not be the last, as I feel the convenience of being able to pay this way will catch on.
As someone that spends a lot of time in my workshop, using tools and making things, these words echo in my memory.
“Well I had to remove the safety guard to get a better angle…”
Maybe my memory is unreliable, but that is how I remember my father explaining how he had caught his thumb with an angle grinder, and later a router.
I believe to this day he has some loss of feeling in that thumb, but he is otherwise intact. That he very calmly stated ‘I think you’re going to need to drive me to the hospital’ to my mum is another prominent feature of this memory.
It has served me well as a long term reminder that tools are dangerous, and before I turn them on I take a moment to think about where my hands will be, where I’ll be moving and generally considering the dangers that may exist. Sometimes I still wind up cursing myself for not thinking things through a little more, typically ‘when this force is applied what is the most likely path things will take’ is a question I sometimes forget to answer, but a hammer to the thumb will quickly remind you that forces such as those associated with a swinging hammer will not necessarily all get neatly imparted onto your target, sometimes it’s considerably easier to bounce to one side and deposit the remaining force onto a soft digit.
Another question I occasionally have forgotten to ask ‘when this spinning cutter hits this material, where will the shavings/dust/sparks want to fly? and is it at my face?’ at times like this I’m glad to be wearing my full face mask, but it’s still an unwelcome shock to have a shower of sparks flying towards your face.
Remember kids, a full face mask isn’t just an awesome fashion statement that shows you mean business, it is also a great way to compensate for failing to think everything through clearly enough.
So it is with all these thoughts in mind that I have embarked on a project to turn my circular saw into a table saw. Once again inspired by Matthias Wandel or woodgears, I previously attempted to copy his idea for a wooden latch for my bathroom.
I have previously made this same conversion in a rather quick and dirty way, I dubbed the result ‘the table saw of death’ just to serve as additional reminder that this was easily the most dangerous tool in the workshop. I held the guard open with the table top, and the table itself was very short, being constructed of just what scraps I had available at the time. It served well for a few specific jobs that were just not plausible in other ways. However it took time to set up, and adjust that made it not terribly efficient. And of course with the trigger locked in the on position, once plugged in it was running until unplugged or switched off at the wall. Before every use I very very carefully thought through the whole cut, and where I would need to move and put my feet etc. Ultimately I disassembled it, always thinking I’d maybe make a nicer job of the idea one day.
Seeing Matthias’ table saw conversion I felt it was time to try again and generally try to steal/learn from how others have done similar. I now have the space to support a much larger table and the patience to try and make a nice, safe, job of it.
That said, this is a project that essentially starts with ‘take off the blade guard because it will just get in the way….’ And whilst doing so I couldn’t help but think of my dad. One of my key goals in the construction is to try to replicate as many of the safety features of a proper table saw as I can.
I know, I could just buy a proper table saw. I know I will never ever get the kind of results from this that I could get from a proper table saw, and I know that by the time I’m done spending money on materials and time fiddling it might even have been more practical to buy a table saw. But as with so many things I do or make, it’s not really about having a table saw, I have no particular pressing need for one. It’s about *making* a table saw. And whilst my CNC router is dismantled and waiting for me to figure out a whole new build, this will keep me entertained.
Matthias has had time to consider what he would do differently, and one of those was screw one of the mounts directly to the casing to get a better alignment and secure holding. So I did exactly that and I’ll see how that goes.
The major works of our new house are still waiting for things like planning permission, and quotes from various suppliers. Oddly one issue seems to be how busy they are, since one company couldn’t even come give us a quote since they are booked solid for the next 4 months!
In anycase this leaves me still able to focus on the smaller jobs, and next on the list is the box room. Having turned one of our rooms into a study for my wife, the box room is mine. You might suggest that it is a little extravagant to have a study each, but my wife’s study is a very personal space for her, and whilst she lets me use it to work from home, she does so grudgingly ;-) Also I have a couple of specific requirements which don’t really fit well with sharing the study.
In our previous place I had a very small ‘workbench’ setup across two bed side cabinets in the corner of our guest bedroom. literally just a sheet of mdf painted white and balanced with just enough room to get a chair at it. It was just enough to prop up an oscilloscope, a soldering iron, and some boxes of components etc.
This time I have a whole box room to make my own (in addition to the garage, but that is another matter entirely) and for the sake of differentiation we’re calling it the ‘studio’. Mostly in reference to the fact that if I work from home it needs to be a good environment to take a video call from.
Most of the work was very similar to the study. That is, stripping wallpaper, removing the radiator to decorate behind it, several coats of white paint. a feature wall, mine is a deep purple, new laminate floor to replace the old carpet. new skirting etc. I also had to add a set of blinds as this room didn’t already have them.
The main point that things get different is the workbench. For the study we already had a desk which has done good service. For my studio I had to decide what I wanted. I looked at desk options, but ultimately decided that to serve as desk for home working and workstation for electronics etc, I would have a bench rather than a desk. Basically with no fixed feet/cupboard beneath it, I can sit the chair at any point along its length.
This decision meant that I could splash out a little on a nice solid walnut worktop, but not spend crazy amounts. The worktop is just mounted on some batons that run along the edges, and a single support near the front, this is what the support frame looks like.
Pretty simple construction, screwed to the walls at regular intervals, arguably the 2.2 metre span could use more support in the front centre than is provided by the basic frame, but we’ll see how it responds to use. mostly the heavy things will be near the corners/back, with only keyboard/trackball nearer the front.
One feature is the provision of power onto the desk top without cluttering wires everywhere. For this I got myself a hole cutter as large as I could find and I cut a hole in each back corner of the workbench. Just below that point I mounted multi-way adapters. I used a hole cutter so that I could potentially use the plug to mostly refill the hole, or generally hold the wired in place.
Using a hole cutter on a workbench is pretty tricky. You really need to get the plunge very straight and perpendicular to the surface, and slight deviation means that the sides of the hole cutter start to rub against the sides of the hole they’re cutting. This quickly adds up to enough friction to stall the whole thing. It took me a while and several adjustments to get the cutter to plunge all the way through my worktop.
I found a decent deal on 3.5 metres of work top, which was over a metre more than I needed. So I was able to use the remainder to make a set of three shelves above the bench. This is one of those places that a bandsaw really helps. though I guess a table saw would do the job also. Stripping >1m lengths of 38mm thick walnut is not something I’d like to try with a handsaw.
Here are pictures of the finished room. I’m really very happy with how it has turned out.
The walnut is finished with a few coats of Danish oil, this was pretty easy to apply, however I did have some trouble where I’d been moving the workbench around with hot sweaty hands, I should have used gloves or cloth to protect the bare wood, as it made it harder to get the oil to absorb evenly. I took better care when handling the shelves and it was much easier.
Now I just need to unpack my random collection of stuff into the room. I’m going to have to come up with some organisation solutions to try to keep things from getting very messy. I’m not a tidy person by nature.
Last time I wrote about redecorating the study in our new house. I sort of claimed that this was finished at the point that we moved the desk in and it could function as a study. However, the truth of course is that a study is incomplete until the copious books can be unpacked onto shelves. In our rented house we had a few standalone bookshelves, but what is the point of owning a house if you don’t put up wall hung shelves?
Obviously it is fairly easy to buy shelf brackets and shelves and relative quick to install. However this needed to be more than just some shelves in stock sizes. My wife wanted a shelf spanning the entire back wall and coming around partially along another wall in a L shape. This pushes us into the real of custom made shelves specifically to fit an exact set of measurements.
The first decision was to go with a rail and bracket system. Last time I did wall hung shelves, I went with floor to ceiling, narrow shelves for dvds and small books, and I used individual brackets each mounted directly to the wall. 3 holes per bracket, I actually lost count of how many brackets, it was a lot. I vowed then that next time I’d just go with rails which can support brackets along their height.
So here are the rails installed and some brackets set in place
That part is fairly easy. we chose how far off the ground we wanted the lowest shelf, in this case dictated by the height of someone sitting on our futon which will eventually go in here (once the living room is redecorated) and then the length of each rail was dictated by how close to the ceiling we might want a top shelf.
Then you need to figure out the spacing, this is dictated by the material you intend to use for a shelf, different materials have different loading capacities and support requirements. If the supports are too far apart for the material you chose then they will sag, maybe not immediately, but with time.
Choice of materials is varied, last time I did this I used mdf, this time I decided to try something different and went with plywood. 18mm plywood has a maximum span between supports of about 60cm. I didn’t want to hit the maximum and I also wanted to have things evenly spaced across the wall.
Another factor was the L shape of the shelf, I wanted to have a support underneath the join point in the corner. My wife wanted the shelves to be 30cm deep, so I wanted a bracket around 20cm from the side wall. To make things look neat I put another at the same spacing from the opposite wall, then just divided the space between those two points into an even spacing that was less than 60cm.
The spacing on the other length actually had a slightly different considerations, where the end wall is an external brick wall, the side wall is internal and only a partition wall. For maximum strength I wanted to make sure I screwed into the studs, so I let that dictate the position of the rails. unsurprisingly the studs where similarly spaced to my requirements anyway, a little closer together.
With all that decided, it was time to measure the first rail into place, use a spirit level to get it vertical, and get it screwed in place. Once the first was up, every subsequent rail was measured relative to the previous one, getting the equivalent height using a spirit level from the base of the rail next to it.
This is important. You could mark out every rail based on the same height from the floor at each position, and achieve the same thing…right? well no, there is a very good chance the floor is not actually level over the span of the room. I could also have gone around marking out every position using my spirit level to match one marking to the next. However the thing about drilling into walls, is that things don’t always go absolutely perfectly where they should, maybe the drill wanders around a particularly hard bit, maybe you just don’t hold everything perfectly. In any case the actually fitted rail might be slightly off from the marked height, by measuring the next rail based on the actually fitted rail next to it, you constantly adapt for any slight variation. This does mean that you could wind up a little off over the span of the shelves, but never by very much in any given neighbouring pair, so everything should look ok in the end.
Hanging the rails is the easy part really, as now I needed to make shelves. My brother pointed out that it would be much much faster to just buy ready made shelves, but as I mentioned that is not going to fit exactly my space requirements. So I bought myself a few 2400×1200 sheets of 18mm plywood, and got cutting. My bandsaw is awesome, and 30cm is actually slightly deeper than it is really supposed to cut, however there is just enough room to setup a 30cm wide cut. So with help from my wife to position the sheets and support them through the cut, we quickly stripped out all the lengths we needed.
That was pretty straight forward, next though I had to use my router to cut away a section of overlap for where two shelves join at the L. Whilst this is not difficult, it is a little time consuming to set up a rail to work against to keep me routing in the correct area. By cutting this section of overlap, I could support that end of both shelf lengths on the same bracket.
Once that was done I then had to setup the shelves in their L shape in the garage so that I could round over the shelf edge and in particular around the inside corner where the shelves meet. This was not too bad, if a little precariously setup on anything I could grab to support the shelves. When repeated 4 time for each L shelf pair this all took a couple of days to work through. Though obviously I wasn’t exactly going at it full time.
At this point things look pretty good, all the shelves fit in place, and could almost be finished. If you didn’t mind the bare plywood look, you could load up the shelves and call it a day.
However, in my case the shelves were to be painted satinwood white. This means, at least one coat of primer, and at least one coat of satinwood. I got some nice stuff so that is all that was required, however it could easily have required multiple coats of each. Painting the shelves took perhaps 5-10 minutes per side per shelf per coat. The elapsed time of this effort is much higher than the spent time. You can only do one side of a shelf at once, allowing that coat to dry enough before you turn the shelf over to paint the other side. In the case of the satinwood coat, it has a drying time of 16 hours! With limited space to lay out shelves for painting I couldn’t do them all at once either. All in all a week or so of evenings and a couple of weekends was required to make my way through all the painting.
In addition I had issues with the supposedly furniture grade plywood from Wickes. Namely small voids in some of the layers. Good quality plywood is not supposed to have any. But this did, so along the cut edges there were little gaps and holes. Not too many, but enough that I needed to use some wood filler to fill them in. Sand it all down and paint over.
And finally they are done. Making your own shelves is a lot of work, it takes a long time. It is worth it. As with all such endeavours I get no small satisfaction from the knowledge that I built something essentially from scratch. That I know every mm of it, for better or worse, from my own attempt to make it as well as I can. Plus of course it is exactly to specification. My wife got to pick exactly how deep she wanted the shelves, precisely where on the wall they should finish, what kind of radius on the end corner, how chamfered to make the edges, how high and how far apart.
I’ve been a little quiet on the blog for a little while, because we’ve been in the process of moving house. Lots of packing and worrying about logistics etc.
Of course the biggest question mark was the moving of the workshop!
Well now we’re finally in. The new house is amazing, and we’ve had a super sunny first week to really enjoy the new area we’re living in. One of the attractions of the house is that actually it needs redecorating throughout, so we still have boxes everywhere and a daunting task ahead to figure out what to do first and what exactly it is we want to do in every room.
The process of moving was, as always, massively frustrating and fraught with stress. Every time I go through it I wind up feeling two things strongly.
1) I’m never going to move again.
2) The whole industry of estate agents and solicitors is ripe to be completely revolutionised and swept away with maybe one big player intent to make it a modern process.
The first is fairly simple, and I really do not have any intention of moving again at this point. This house is perfect, and it was good enough for the previous owners to live in for 30 years, I consider that a challenge and am aiming to beat their high score.
The second always fades as I realise that I’m not planning on moving again. which I guess is what everyone does which is why it is still a horrific experience to try buying a house and why solicitors and estate agents get to operate as if the internet age essentially hasn’t happened.
There is really no excuse as to why initial introduction with solicitor doesn’t involve agreeing on a secure online form of communication which subsequently allows you to authorise all documents electronically. no need to post bits of dead tree around with ‘wet ink’ on them. Right there you could wipe a few weeks off the process.
If you are in any way inclined in the space of solicitors/conveyancing I really think the market is wide open for you to totally dominate the house moving market. I wish someone would, but that someone will not be me.
I am now just really happy to know I no longer have to deal with estate agents, with the small exception of recovering what I can of my deposit on the rental we moved out of. I sold off the house I was renting a while ago, but now I live in my own house again I really feel the full force of no more random calls with urgent repairs required by my tenant, and no more having to go through a lazy, inefficient estate agency to get anything fixed in my own property.
Just as moving out the workshop was a big consideration, now that we’re in, a big consideration is that I am once again faced with the chance to design my workshop layout. Last time I had restrictions of not bolting anything to the walls, since I was only renting. This time I can hopefully give myself much more decent bench space. Also last time I decided to put my lathe in the middle of the space, I felt previously I’d been a little restricted having it bolted to a wall particularly trying to hollow items. The swing of the tool would clash with the wall. However I think I really just need to give it a little more space out from the wall, it doesn’t need to be in the middle taking up more space. Of course this time around I know that I want to rebuild my cnc machine, so I will have to allot space in the plan for that. And consider if I’m going to aim for a slightly larger build for this iteration.
There is so much to do in the workshop that I need to remember that first there are other priorities in the house itself. There may come a point of chicken and egg, there are good reasons to get some of the rooms in the house done first, however doing them will require tools which are currently buried in boxes in the garage, so may necessitate a certain amount of workshop sorting to get at them.
So, where to start? we have walls to strip of wallpaper, carpet to rip up and replace with various flooring, bathrooms to replace, a window we’d like to turn into a door, a kitchen to replace, a fireplace to remodel, a workshop to set up…
Any tips or tricks I should consider? pitfalls to look out for? let me know!